It's That Time of Year - Moths

Moths can be source of great distress: a fear of moths is called Mottephobia. If moths are present in your business or domestic premises they can be a source of frustration and expense. They can cause damage to fabrics and material and while the damage to such items may be costly to replace, they may also have sentimental value. Consider quilts sewn by relatives who wished to lend a personal touch to their gift, or a wedding dress stored for the use of daughters and granddaughters. Then we might consider the expense incurred if we had to replace upholstery, curtains, fabric and other such furnishings. Moths are not, however, a health risk.

It is a curious fact that the moths themselves don’t actually eat the fabric. In the life of a moth the main drive and purpose is to reproduce: it is the moth larvae that damage your goods. While we find that there are thousands of species of moth worldwide, in the UK there are only 4 species that actually cause damage to fabric and material. These four have differing preferences for the materials in connection with which they are problematic. As mentioned, it is their larvae that cause the damage.

The Brown House Moth (Hofmannophila pseudospretell) is very commonly found in business and domestic premises. The adult is 8-14mm long and is brown in colour with three or four darker spots. The pestilential larvae are, individually, up to 20mm long. These larvae prefer to feed on animal textiles such as leather, wool and feather. They generate annually and the larva may travel large distances before pupation. These are considered to be scavengers.

The White-Shouldered House Moth (Endrosis sarcitrella) are, on the whole, less damaging to textiles. The adult is 6-10mm in length with a white head and mottled wings. The larvae are up to 12 mm long, cream coloured and with a red-brown head. The pupa is in a silk cocoon. They generate once annually and can often be found in unheated outdoor buildings and outhouses. The larvae scavenge on a broad range of foods

The Common Clothes Moth (Tineola bisselliella) is known for making irregular holes in fabrics. The adults have straw coloured wings with no markings. They are 6-8mm in length and the trailing edge of the wings is fringed. The larvae are up to 10mm long, cream white in colour with a brown head. From egg to adult the duration is usually about 6 weeks. In terms of longevity, the common clothes moth may reach 10 to 18 months depending on food quality and ambient temperature. The adult does not feed curiously enough; it runs rather than flies and avoids light

The Case-Bearing Clothes Moth (Tinea pellionella) makes regular holes in fabric. Adults are 6-8mm

long with dark buff forewings topped with three faint spots, which may appear as two spots. The larvae are up to 10mm in length and creamy white in colour. In terms of lifecycle, the Case-Bearing Clothes Moth is similar to the Common Clothes Moth. These are, however, more rare. Imported goods are a common hiding place for these moths such as hides or objects of an animal origin.

In a case of moth infestation, people generally first notice the damage to clothes, fabrics carpets etc. There are other indications and signs that you might have such an infestation:

Small maggot-like larvae

Silken sheath-like tubes and cases in which moth larvae live

Silk cocoons, or pupae, from which larvae emerge as moths

You might also notice adult moths crawling rather than flying

 

The prevention of moths and moth infestation in your domestic or business premises can be difficult. There are certain practical steps that you can take to reduce the risk. At Key West Pest Control, we would advise trying to deny moths access in to your buildings. You might try using fly screens or drawing curtains at night to deny entry. We would advise vacuuming regularly: this will ensure that hidden areas beneath large furniture and sofas will be free of eggs. You might also keep textiles stored within sealed bags or suitcases in order to prevent access. Making sure that clothes are clean, and not dirty, will help – moths prefer dirty clothes. Moth repellents and other DIY pest control products are available for you to try to control a small problem. If you wish to guarantee complete control of a large and repeat infestation, call Key West Pest Control: we’re the professionals equipped, trained and certified to rid you of your woes.

Areas in your domestic and business premises that are at high risk for moth infestations include infrequently used cupboards, drawers and wardrobes; underneath beds; and in lofts and attics – moths can be attracted to bird nests.

 

Finding and Sourcing Plants and Seeds Favourable to Bumblebees

 

Making your garden favourable to Bumblebees can be a pleasant activity applicable on any budget

You can, if you wish, source your plants from a garden centre. Plants from garden centres will typically be sizeable and well established although more expensive than other options. It is common practice among garden centres to display plants for sale when they are flowering. This approach to marketing the plants enables you to judge which flowering plants are favourable to bumblebees – the bumblebees will be present at the flowers of their choosing: job done.

Increasingly online shops are selling mail-order plug plants. Usually, these come in trays of multiple plants, including wildflowers and garden favourites. Although such plants are small, they are well established with strong root systems. Patience is the requisite virtue in the case of this option – in many cases you will have to wait for a year until they flower. Nevertheless, this method is cost-effective.

Even more cost effective than this option is that of purchasing seed packets. They are available in garden centres, via catalogues and can be ordered online. Again, in most cases, you will have to wait a year until the plants flower, unless they are categorised as ‘annuals’.

Another option, ideal for more experienced gardeners, is propagation. A very broad range of bee-friendly plants can be split at the roots or will continue and take well from cuttings. If you favour this option, it would be worth your while making friends and acquaintances with other gardeners with an interest in promoting the interests and survival of bumblebees. You are likely to find such people in gardening clubs, community groups, or facebook groups. If you cannot find a related facebook group relevant to your geographical area, why not start one?

 

A further option is to gather a wild seed collection. There are many native bee-friendly plants that will make your borders look splendid. The wild plants that are best adapted to your soil type and regional climate are those found locally to your garden. These will be the most resistant to pests. At Key West Pest Control we would urge you not to dig up the plants themselves by way of propagation. Our advice is to mark or remember the location of such plants and return to gather seed later in the year. We would also advise avoiding plants found on private land, but to favour those growing on riverbanks and road verges. Furthermore, we would urge you to refrain from collecting seed from rare plants or from places where the given species is scarce.

 

A garden that is favourable to the survival of bumblebees should provide bee-friendly flowers that are rich in pollen and nectar, which are easily accessible from the spring until the late summer. The aim should be to ensure a good supply pollen at all of the crucial times:-

(A)When the queens are establishing nests; (B) When nests are growing; (C) When nests are producing new queens and males; (D) When queens are trying to fatten up in preparation for hibernation.

The higher the number of suitable flowering plants in your garden the better. Aim for at least two kinds of bee-friendly plant for each period of flowering.

 

What to avoid.

While certain plants bring real aesthetic beauty a garden, some ought to be avoided in the interest of the local habitat. Some species tend to ‘escape’ from gardens can invade nearby wild habitats. We would, therefore, urge you to avoid Rhododendron ponticum and Himalyan balsam.

 

Certain flowering plants produce flowers with shapes that cannot be used by bumblebees. Some flowers consist of petals that form long tunnels. Such tunnels are too long and narrow for the bees to gain access and feed. The reverse physical characteristic also causes problems for bumblebees. Some plants produce flowers with multiple tightly packed heads offering very little access to the bumblebee

Certain plants offer too little pollen and nectar to bumblebees. Typically, these plants have been selectively bred by horticulturalists in order to produce flowers that are very pleasing in appearance. Pansies and double begonias are examples of this phenomenon. We would advise avoiding these

Key West Pest Control would also urge you to avoid using any pesticides in your garden. Such pesticides are often given the retail label of ‘bug killers’ etc. The vast majority of these domestic pesticides are harmful to bumblebees.

Interesting others

If you have succeeded in making your garden a haven for bumblebees, well done! – you should tell others about it. Why not gain the interest of others in preserving the bumblebee? We would suggest holding an open garden day. You might charge an entrance fee and direct the funds towards bumblebee conservation. You might request a guest speaker to pass on expertise to your guests. Again, why not organise such an event with an event page on facebook?

 

  
 
 

Summer Is Here: Watch Out for Ants

Summer has arrived and the ambient temperature of our natural environment is generally increasing. As our minds turn to thoughts of holidays and summer romance, colonies of ants turn to thoughts of foraging, which can inadvertently cause a nuisance in your home or commercial premises

Taking both the natural and man-made, synthetic world on the whole, the vast majority of ant species can be found to inhabit warm, hot countries that experience plenty of sunlight. The climate experienced by the UK is not suitable for most species found in the world. The small number of species found in the UK can, however, be source of consternation and inconvenience when they have entered your domestic or commercial premises.  Garden ants and Black ants are not considered to be serious problem because they are not thought to carry diseases. Problems can arise from their presence in your domestic or commercial premises because they might carry unsavoury material into your buildings from where they have been foraging. Taking into account this consideration, we might well reflect that we would not be overjoyed to find them marching through our food cupboards.

It is typical of ant behaviour for them to march across a wide ranging area in search of food. They will follow well established trails that cluster around a source of food and might lead through commercial and domestic property therefore can cause a nuisance. The origin of such trails can be identified by small plies of earth and matter around holes in soil and at the base of external walls. You can take action yourself in order to prevent the nuisance once detected. You should:

1.       Identify the point at which the ants are entering your premises and seal off this entrance

2.       Clear away and cover/ seal foodstuffs which might act as a source of food for ants

3.       Clear and clean sticky, sugar-related residues on work surfaces. Ants are attracted to sweet food

Certain facts about different species of ants are worth considering if you are to identify them

Pharoah Ant

•Workers 1.5–2mm long, yellow–brown with brown abdomen.

•Males 3mm long, black and winged.

•Queens 3.5–6mm long, dark red in colour with wings.

•Black eyes. 2 small segments at the pedicel.

Lifecycle:

•Multi–queen colonies.

•Swarming can take place at any time of the year.           

•Winged adults seldom fly so rarely seen. Wings are soon lost after mating.

Habits :

•Well–defined trails are laid which are often associated with heating systems. Feeds indoors on high protein foods — meat, fats, blood, dead insects, etc.

•Swarming characteristics — new colonies are often formed through nests that have been disturbed e.g., as a result of insecticide spray treatments. Each queen produces up to 3500 eggs in its lifetime.

•Nest locations — deep seated in cavities in heated buildings. Often found in hospitals. Associated with humid conditions. Colonies can range from a few dozen to 300,000 individuals.

Garden Ant

•Workers 4-5mm long.

•Queens 15mm long.

•Dark brown-black in colour.

•1 small segment at waist point (pedicel).

•No sting present.

•Queens over winter in soil. The eggs are laid in late spring and the larvae hatch 3–4 weeks later.

•Larvae feed on secretions from the queen’s salivary glands until the first worker ants emerge.

•Worker ants continue with larval care, nest building and food foraging.

•Fertile males are produced later in the season.

Habits :

•Foraging worker ants follow well–defined trails around food sources. Sweet foods are preferred but high protein foods will also be taken.

•Swarming characteristics – mating between queens and fertile males takes place on the wing during late summer and the males perish after mating.

•Nest locations – often outdoors in soil and below paving slabs on the sunny side of buildings. Nest locations can be identified by the presence of finely powdered soil around nest exit holes.

A small garden ant problem might be easily dealt with via the use of DIY products. Multiple infestations or even one large infestation of, for example, Pharoah, Fire or Ghost ants will require professional preventative services in order to ensure that it will not recur. That’s where Key West Pest Control comes in. We will identify the particular species of ant in the infestation and calculate which type and power of insecticide to apply to the problem such that it will not happen again. In such a situation we always act in such a way that causes no harm to your family and pets.

Frequently Asked Questions About Bumblebees

Frequently Asked Questions About Bumblebees

 

How do bees make honey?

Honey is a fluid concentration of nectar; nectar is chiefly a mixture of a variety of sugars found as secretions from flowers into their nectaries. Bumblebees imbibe the nectar via their tubular tongues, which are considerably long when compared with the length of the bumblebee body. Their tongues are feathery at the extremity, and they are contained within a sheath. The sheath itself is formed of a pair of palps and maxilla, considered to be extended parts of the bumblebee’s mouth. They act as a sort of straw via which the bumblebee sucks the nectar into the honeystomach – essentially a bag for the storage of the nectar, and which is emptied into the honeypot when the bee returns to the nest. The nectar therefore passes back up through the bee’s mouth again. The bumblebee’s body temperature is almost the same as a human’s, and the temperature within the nest is also quite warm. Consequently, water evaporates from the nectar both in transit and when stored. When a certain degree of water has evaporated from the nectar, it is considered to be honey: concentrated nectar.

 

Can honey be obtained from a Bumblebee nest? – If it can, how much?

The species of Bumblebee, Bombus terretris, is the type that constructs the largest nest in the UK. Even these nests contain at most a few ounces of honey. In experiments on the species B. lapidaries, a nest reared within a nest box was divested of over four ounces of honey and the nest continued to survive. On this account the answer to the question is: yes, theoretically, honey can be obtained from Bumblebees. The quantity, however, is so small that employing such nest for commercial production is not feasible. In addition, the honey obtained is less dense than hive bee honey, being more watery, and, therefore, ferments more easily. On average, a typical bumblebee engaged in 10 flights per day would make a return of nectar sufficient to produce 3 ml of honey. In order to extract the honey from the nest, it would be probably be necessary to destroy eggs and young in process (the nests of bumblebees are not well organised or tidy arrangements). At Key West Pest Control, we would urge against this course of action – humans have a vested interest in the survival of the bumblebee because of our symbiotic relationship with pollinating creatures.

 

What should I do if I discover a bumblebee nest?

Ideally, the best course of action would be simply to leave the nest alone in peace. In certain quarters bumblebee nests are valued highly: farmers who grow tomatoes in greenhouses pay large sums of money for them (tomato plants require the specialised ‘buzz pollination’ method that bumblebees have evolved to employ). If you were to find a nest on your domestic or commercial property you might consider yourself lucky.

It is only natural, however, to be concerned about the location of the nest and what might result from its presence. It is worth bearing in mind though that bumblebee nests are not like honeybee hives, and they will only continue to operate as a nest for a few months at most. It is also worth taking into consideration the fact that bumblebees do not swarm and are not aggressive – only the females have stings and will use them only in the circumstance that they perceive an exceptional threat (unlike wasps). Generally speaking, bumblebees are placid; ff you find a nest under a shed, hutch or house it is best simply to leave it.

Species Bombus pratorum and B. hotorum, which tend to make smaller than average nests, do sometimes construct them in some strange locations. In the case of these species and those like them, the nests are very short lived – it is best to leave them in peace. Observation of the nest can be an anodyne amusement, and can be employed as a stimulating source of education for children. If, however, you find a nest attached to the rotary components a gardening device or somewhere else inconvenient such as in garden clothing, it might be necessary to relocate the nest. A nest can be relocated to a container such as a biscuit barrel or sandwich box. Alternatively, you could make a nest box. If the nest was found outside, then the nest box ought to be outside – but make sure it is weatherproof. Likewise, if the nest was found inside, it is best to relocate it to an interior site. If you are uncertain as to how to proceed, contact Key West Pest Control: we will advise and intervene if it is necessary. If you do decide to transfer the nest yourself, make sure you do it in the early evening when all or most of the bees will be inside the nest – they will be less active because it is cooler. You will need to work quickly, so get someone to assist you. It is advisable to provide building materials to the newly transferred bees such as dry felt, moss and bits of dried grass. If you are relocating the nest you must be prepared to catch late returning workers to the nest and place them in the new nest. They will return that night or in the morning when it is warmer. The survival of the nest depends of the operation of all of the workers in gathering food. The nest itself should be south-facing.

 

How long does a bumblebee nest last?

The duration of the operation of a nest depends largely on two factors: the species of bumblebee, and how successful the nest is. A nest of Bombus terrestris might last from early spring to October; whereas a short lived nest such as that of Bombus pratorum can last for just a month. The answer to this question depends on you identifying which species of bumblebee you have. It is an unfortunate fact to take into consideration that not all nests complete their lifecycles.

 

Can bumblebees be kept in the same way as hive bees?

The answer to this question is: yes, that is, if you put together a suitable nest box. They will not, of course, survive the winter. For details on how to construct an appropriate nest box, contact us at Key West Pest Control.

 

I have been given a bumblebee nest box, but I think it is the wrong time of year – what should I do with it?

The best thing to do would be to put it outside and leave it to the elements. If you have seen bumblebees around and about your area (i.e. in your garden) try to identify the species and therefore ascertain whether it is a ground-, surface- or above ground-nesting species. Most species tend to have a preference. Make sure you look around for a good site and take your time to place the box suitably: south-facing and secluded. All you have to do then is leave it alone. In the spring it is worth inspecting the inside of the box. If the box show signs of occupancy by birds or small mammal, it is a good sign. Leave the existing nesting material and droppings. Bumblebee queens prefer such conditions. If you think it is necessary, place a little more nesting material inside the box. If you find that there are no signs of activity by small mammals or roosting birds, and it is damp or wet and showing signs of the activity of slugs and snails, it is a bad site. It is then necessary to clean the box out and dry it to be placed in a better location.

 

This year, I have noticed bumblebees entering the building through an air brick – how do I prevent this happening next year?

You do not need to block up the air brick – it is there for a reason after all. Simply cover the air brick with either metal or plastic mesh sufficiently small to prevent a bumblebee queen entering. These creatures have weak jaws and will not be able to get through.

 

 

 

The Bumblebee - A Friend to Humankind

Bumblebees

 

Much beloved by the inhabitants of the British Isles, the bumblebee is a familiar and deservedly welcome visitor to our gardens. An insect of considerable charisma these furry-bodied creatures form a quintessential element in British summertime. With sadness, however, we may reflect that owing to a combination of the preponderance of paved gardens and intensive agriculture they are struggling to survive. With sadness indeed, and with an eye to expediency and survival do we lament their waning: all other life depends on our state of collective, natural symbiosis.

24 species of bumblebee are found in the UK. The wheels have been put into motion of a scheme to reintroduce the Short-haired bumblebee. Within the last eighty years two species of our symbiotic counterparts have become extinct for a simple reason verified by aggregated data: fewer flowers now grow in the countryside than had formerly been the case. Consequently, the provision of the necessary nectar and pollen required to propagate the survival of the bumblebee is found wanting

The outlook on this apparently alarming matter is not so bleak – you can take action to promote their survival!

Let’s, first, look at what distinguishes the bumblebee from the other insects, which at first glance might be mistaken to bear similarity. For the majority of people, bees in general are instantly recognisable. Closer study has revealed distinct differences between bumblebees, honeybees and solitary bees. Bumblebees are larger and hairier than their cousins. With this comparative extra insulation they are ideally suited to a colder climate. Where a honeybee will stay safely inside on a cold day, a bumblebee will continue to work in our gardens, hedgerows and across the land. The nests of bumblebees are small; they are therefore unable to store large amounts of honey. Consequently, they are far more sensitive to the availability of pollen from flowers rich in nectar.

Another distinguishing feature of the bumblebee is their aromatic feet. They retain a scent on their feet which enables them to leave a signal on flowers to other bumblebees indicating that those already visited flowers contain little nectar or pollen. Subsequent bumblebees will then know to avoid expending the energy required to land and investigate.

Bumblebees are distinct from wasps and honeybees – although they may potentially be confused – in that they do not swarm and are not aggressive. Only the female of the species is able to sting, and they usually do so in the circumstance that they perceive an exceptional threat.

Bumblebees may be further distinguished from other species in that they have uniquely evolved ‘buzz pollination’. This process involves the bee grabbing the flower and producing a high- pitched buzz. The rapid vibration of this high-pitched buzz releases pollen that would otherwise remain trapped within the flower. Tomato plants are pollinated in this way.

If you find a bumblebee stranded and apparently exhausted it is advisable to provide a small amount of sugar-water solution. The bee will consume it and will be revived.

The bumblebee is a social insect living, typically, in nests of up to four hundred individuals. A nest of bumblebees is governed by a queen. Where a honeybee nest will operate actively for several years, a nest of bumblebees lasts for a duration of one year only. Early in spring the queen bee emerges from a state of hibernation to initiate a new nest. She will, firstly, build her energy reserves by collecting pollen and finding flowers rich in nectar. Once this has been accomplished, she will locate a suitable site for the nest (they rarely nest in the same location in consecutive years) and rear her first batch of eggs – these eggs will hatch to emit a group of female workers who will be tasked with feeding and nurturing the colony. This process is continually repeated throughout the summer months. The queen herself will rarely leave the nest. At the end of the summer the queen produces males and new queens. After mating the males die along with the old queens and workers. The survivors are, as you might expect, the new fertilised queens who hibernate throughout winter and emerge in the spring to establish new nests.

 

What can you do to help?

Taken together British gardens cover more than 1 million acres of land. Whether your garden is small or large, you can make a significant contribution to the ongoing survival of bumblebees by ensuring that you have lots of bee-friendly flowers throughout the year. Such flowers must be rich in pollen and nectar of course. Ornamental plants commonly found in gardens such as pansies and begonias are of no use to bumblebees. They are a delight to behold, but produce very little pollen or nectar. At Key West Pest Control, our concern to promote the survival of the bumblebee is such that we would urge you to introduce pollen and nectar rich flowers such as foxgloves, geraniums, wild roses, herbs and lavender. You will find that there are literally hundreds of different kinds of beautiful flowering plants available to you and your garden.

You can also help simply by telling others about it – raising awareness. Why not share this blog post to your facebook pages and twitter streams? It can’t hurt, and might help.